labarai

A cikin tsarin hadadden kayan gyaran gashi, kowanne bangare yana da takamaiman aiki kuma yana aiki tare don cimma kyakkyawan salo da tasirin launi.Glyceryl monothioglycolate(CAS 30618-84-9), a matsayin muhimmin abu mai rage acidity, kodayake ba shine babban abin da ke cikin rini da canza launin gashi kai tsaye ba, yana taka muhimmiyar rawa a cikin rini gashi. Sifofin sinadarai na musamman suna ba da babban tallafi don haɓaka tasirin rini gashi da rage lalacewar gashi.

I. Halayen Sashi: Wani abu mai rage acid mai sauƙi a cikin muhallin acidic

Domin fahimtar rawar da glyceryl monothioglycolate ke takawa a rina gashi, da farko ya zama dole a fayyace ainihin halayen sinadaransa. Wannan bangaren yana cikin dangin mahaɗin thiol. Ƙungiyar thiol (-SH) da ke cikin tsarin kwayoyin halittarsa ​​tana da ƙarfi wajen rage aiki, yayin da ƙungiyar glyceride ke ba ta kyakkyawan narkewar ruwa da kuma dacewa da fata. Idan aka kwatanta da magungunan rage alkaline na gargajiya, babban fa'idar glyceryl monothioglycolate tana cikin kewayon pH ɗinsa mai rauni (yawanci 3.0-4.0). Wannan halayyar tana ba shi damar yin tasirin ragewa yayin da yake guje wa lalacewar da ta wuce gona da iri ga yanke gashi da abubuwan alkaline masu yawa ke haifarwa. Kafa harsashin "magani mai laushi" don tsarin rina gashi na gaba.

;

Dangane da kwanciyar hankali,glyceryl monothioglycolateBa ya ruɓewa cikin sauƙi a cikin tsarin acidic kuma yana iya ci gaba da rage ayyukansa na dogon lokaci. Wannan fasalin ya sa ya dace da aikin haɗin gwiwa tare da ƙwayoyin launi, abubuwan kariya da sauran abubuwan da ke cikin rini na gashi don samar da tsarin samfuran kula da gashi mai ɗorewa. A halin yanzu, tsarin glyceride ɗinsa kuma yana iya samar da fim mai kariya a saman gashi, yana rage lalacewar tsarin keratin na ciki na gashi wanda ke haifar da magunguna na sinadarai daga baya, yana samar da mafita mai kyau don rina gashi da ya lalace ko gashi mai laushi da laushi.

II. Babban rawar da ake takawa wajen rina gashi: Bude “tashoshi” kuma ƙara dawwamawar launuka

Babban aikin rini gashi shine shigar da ƙwayoyin pigment a cikin gashi da kuma daidaita su. Duk da haka, shingayen halitta na gashi - cuticles da tsarin keratin - suna hana shigar ƙwayoyin pigment kai tsaye. Babban aikin glyceryl monomercaptoacetate shine karya wannan shingen ta hanyar halayen sinadarai da kuma "buɗe hanyoyin" don ƙwayoyin pigment.

1. Katse haɗin disulfide sannan ka sassauta tsarin gashi

Ƙarfi da sassaucin gashi sun dogara ne akan haɗin disulfide (-SS-) tsakanin ƙwayoyin keratin. Ƙungiyar thiol (-SH) a cikin Glyceryl monothioglycolate na iya amsawa da haɗin disulfide, rage su zuwa ƙungiyoyi biyu na thiol (-SH + -SS- → -SS- + -SH), ta haka yana yanke haɗin da ke tsakanin keratin. Wannan tsari yana sa tsarin gashi ya yi laushi da santsi, ƙusoshin suna buɗewa a hankali, kuma sararin ciki mai tsauri na gashi yana fitowa, yana ƙirƙirar yanayi don shigar ƙwayoyin pigment a cikin rini na gashi.

Idan aka kwatanta da sinadarin mercaptoacetic acid da ake amfani da shi a cikin sinadaran alkaline perming na gashi, yanayin acidic na glyceryl monothioglycolate mai rauni zai iya sarrafa matakin karyewar haɗin disulfide daidai, yana guje wa lalacewa mai yawa wanda ke haifar da karyewar gashi cikin sauƙi da sauri. Bayanan gwaji sun nuna cewa a ƙarƙashin lokacin sarrafawa iri ɗaya, lokacin amfani da maganin kafin magani wanda ke ɗauke da wannan sinadarin, ana iya sarrafa saurin karyewar haɗin disulfide a cikin gashi a kashi 30%-40%, wanda ba wai kawai zai iya biyan buƙatun shigar launin ba amma kuma yana riƙe da fiye da kashi 70% na ƙarfin injina na gashi.

2. Inganta gyaran launi don tsawaita lokacin ingancin rini gashi

Idan cuticles suka buɗe kuma tsarin gashi ya yi laushi, ƙwayoyin pigment a cikin rini na gashi (kamar tsaka-tsakin rini mai oxidized da ƙananan pigments na molecule na redies kai tsaye) na iya shiga layin cortex na gashi cikin sauƙi. Yanayin da ba shi da acidic na glyceryl monothioglycolate shi ma zai iya daidaita yanayin cajin ciki na gashi - gashi zai ɗauki caji mai kyau a ƙarƙashin yanayin acidic, yana samar da jan hankali na lantarki tare da ƙwayoyin pigment masu caji mara kyau, yana taimakawa ƙwayoyin pigment su manne da keratin sosai da rage asarar pigment yayin aikin wankewa.

A aikace-aikace na zahiri, juriyar rini na gashi na iya ƙaruwa da kashi 20% zuwa 30% bayan an yi masa magani da wani magani kafin a yi masa magani wanda ya ƙunshiglyceryl monothioglycolateMisali, lokacin da launin rini na gashi na yau da kullun ke raguwa a kan gashi mai laushi da laushi yana tsakanin makonni 4 zuwa 6. Duk da haka, bayan an yi masa magani da wannan sinadari, za a iya tsawaita lokacin da launin ke ɓacewa zuwa makonni 6 zuwa 8, kuma cikar launi zai zama iri ɗaya, yana guje wa matsaloli kamar bushewa a ƙarshen gashi da kuma bambancin da ya wuce kima a sabon launi a tushen gashi.

;

III. Yanayin Amfani Mai Amfani: Mafi yawansu sun fi mayar da hankali ne a tsarin "gurasa da rini mai tsari"

Duk da cewa glyceryl monothioglycolate na iya taimakawa wajen rina gashi, ba a ƙara shi kai tsaye a cikin rina gashi ba amma galibi ana samunsa a cikin abubuwan da ke haifar da bushewar gashi (musamman samfuran perming mai acidic) ko magungunan kafin a yi musu magani, wanda ke samar da haɗin "haɗin gwiwa" tare da tsarin rina gashi. Yanayin amfani da aka saba amfani da shi galibi sun haɗa da waɗannan rukunoni biyu:

1. Tsarin kariya daga lalacewar gashi "perm da farko, sannan rina"

Ga gashin da ya lalace sakamakon yawan yin rini da kuma rini akai-akai, tsarin gargajiya na "rini da farko sannan rini" yana iya sa gashin ya rasa sassaucinsa gaba ɗaya saboda lalacewar sinadarai biyu. A wannan lokacin, wani sinadari mai hana gashi mai acidic wanda ke ɗauke da glyceryl monothioglycolate ya zama muhimmi: yanayinsa mai rauni na acidic zai iya rage lalacewar cuticles yayin aikin perming, yayin da yake karya haɗin disulfide a hankali, yana ba da damar gashin ya samar da salon lanƙwasa yayin da yake riƙe da wani matakin tauri. Lokacin da ake rini da gashi daga baya, cuticles ɗin da aka buɗe suna ba da damar ƙwayoyin pigment su shiga cikin sauri, suna kawar da buƙatar ƙarin rini na gashi mai yawan alkaline kuma don haka rage haɗarin lalacewa biyu.

2. Maganin "Inganta Launi" kafin a fara yi wa gashi mai laushi da laushi

Yawan keratin na gashi mai laushi da laushi yana da ƙarancin yawa, kuma tsarin cuticles ɗin siriri ne. Idan aka rina kai tsaye, ƙwayoyin pigment suna manne da saman kuma suna da wahalar shiga layin cortex, wanda ke haifar da nuna launin haske da kuma raguwar launi cikin sauƙi. A wannan lokacin, da farko za ku iya shafa wani maganin da ke ɗauke da glyceryl monothioglycolate a kan gashinku: tasirin rage shi na iya ɗan karya haɗin disulfide a cikin gashi mai laushi da laushi, yana sa tsarin gashi ya zama "sassauci", kuma a lokaci guda, fim ɗin kariya da ƙungiyoyin glyceryl ester suka samar a saman gashi na iya hana asarar ƙwayoyin pigment da yawa. Bayan an yi magani kafin a rina gashi, ƙwayoyin pigment za a iya rarraba su daidai a cikin layin cortex, wanda ke haifar da cikakken tasirin nuna launi, kuma yana iya rage ƙaiƙayin ammonia, hydrogen peroxide da sauran abubuwan da ke cikin rina gashi zuwa gashi mai laushi da laushi.

IV. Gargaɗi don Amfani: Rashin lafiyan jiki da haɗin gwiwar dabara sune mahimman abubuwa

Duk da cewa glyceryl monothioglycolate yana da fa'idodi masu yawa a cikin taimakon rini gashi, saboda halayen sinadarai, dole ne a sa ido sosai kan aminci da hankali yayin amfani da shi don guje wa haɗarin da ka iya tasowa.

1. Akwai yiwuwar rashin lafiyar jiki: Dole ne a gudanar da gwaje-gwajen fata

Glyceryl monothioglycolate yana cikin rukunin thiol na mahadi kuma yana ɗaya daga cikin abubuwan da ke haifar da rashin lafiyar gashi. Ko dai kamuwa da gashi na dogon lokaci ne daga masu kula da gashi (kamar taɓa fatar hannu akai-akai da samfurin) ko kuma masu amfani da samfuran perming/rina waɗanda ke ɗauke da wannan sinadarin, yana iya haifar da cutar fata - alamun suna bayyana kamar ja, ƙaiƙayi, da kuma jin zafi a fatar kai. A cikin mawuyacin hali, ƙuraje, barewa na iya faruwa, har ma da bazuwa zuwa wuraren da suka taɓa kamar fuska da wuya.

Glyceryl monothioglycolateYa fi muhimmanci a lura cewa wannan sinadarin na iya kasancewa a cikin gashi bayan an yi masa fenti ko an yi masa rini har zuwa watanni uku. Ko da babu wata rashin jin daɗi a lokacin amfani da shi na farko, sauran sinadaran na iya ci gaba da taɓa fatar kai yayin da ake yin shamfu da tsefewa, wanda hakan ke haifar da jinkiri wajen haifar da rashin lafiyan. Saboda haka, duk kayayyakin kula da gashi da ke ɗauke da wannan sinadarin dole ne a yi gwajin fata na tsawon awanni 48 a bayan kunne ko a gefen ciki na hannu kafin amfani. Sai bayan an tabbatar da cewa babu wani abu kamar ja, kumburi, ko ƙaiƙayi za a iya amfani da su a kan fatar kai.

2. Dogaro da dabara: Ba za a iya amfani da shi shi kaɗai ba

Tasirin Glyceryl monothioglycolate ya dogara sosai akan haɗin gwiwar formula kuma ba za a iya amfani da shi shi kaɗai don kula da gashi ba. A gefe guda, yana buƙatar a haɗa shi da buffers (kamar citric acid da sodium dihydrogen phosphate) don kiyaye yanayi mai ƙarfi mai rauni na acid. Idan dabarar ba ta da buffers, ƙimar pH ɗinta na iya ƙaruwa tare da lokacin ajiya, ba wai kawai yana rasa laushin sa ba har ma yana iya haifar da raguwar ayyukansa. A gefe guda kuma, yana buƙatar a haɗa shi da sinadaran chelating (kamar disodium EDTA) don hana ions na calcium da magnesium a cikin ruwa yin martani tare da abubuwan da ke cikin su da kuma shafar kwanciyar hankali.

Bugu da ƙari, wannan sinadari yana da abubuwan da ba su dace ba ga samfuran da ke ɗauke da sinadarin alkaline, kamar rini na gashi mai ɗauke da sinadarin ammonia fiye da kashi 3%. Idan aka haɗa shi kai tsaye da rini na gashi mai ɗauke da sinadarin alkaline, yanayin da ke ɗauke da sinadarin acid zai lalace. Ba wai kawai zai gaza taimakawa wajen haɓaka launi ba, har ma yana iya haifar da iskar gas mai ban haushi, yana ƙara lalacewar gashi da kuma ƙaiƙayi a kan kai. Saboda haka, ya kamata a yi amfani da magungunan da ke ɗauke da wannan sinadari a madadin rini na gashi (galibi ana ba da shawarar a rini gashi awanni 24 zuwa 48 bayan rini), kuma a guji taɓawa kai tsaye.

;

3. Maganin ragowar abinci: Ana buƙatar tsaftacewa sosai bayan an yi wa goge da kuma rini.

Ganin cewa glyceryl monothioglycolate na iya kasancewa a cikin gashi na dogon lokaci, bayan an kammala aikin rini da kuma gyaran gashi, ya zama dole a tsaftace gashin sosai da shamfu mai tsaka-tsaki don cire sauran abubuwan da suka rage. Lokacin tsaftacewa, ana ba da shawarar a yi amfani da ruwan dumi (kimanin digiri 37) don guje wa haushin fatar kai da ruwan zafi mai yawa. A lokaci guda, za ku iya amfani da na'urar sanyaya gashi da ke ɗauke da panthenol da ceramide don gyara cuticles da suka lalace da kuma rage tasirin da sauran abubuwan da suka rage ke yi akan gashi.

V. Kammalawa: "Ba za a iya maye gurbinsa ba" na Ayyukan Tallafawa

Duk da cewaglyceryl monothioglycolate CAS 30618-84-9Ba shine babban abin da ke taimakawa wajen rina gashi da canza launi ba, ya zama babban abin da ke taimakawa wajen rina gashi saboda rashin sinadarin acid mai yawa. Glyceryl monothioglycolate yana samar da mafita mafi aminci da inganci don rina gashi da kuma rina gashi da ya lalace da kuma gashi mai laushi ta hanyar buɗe ƙusoshin da kuma inganta gyaran launi. A lokaci guda, yana kuma shimfida harsashin inganta dorewa da kuma tasirin nuna launi na rina gashi.

Duk da haka, yuwuwar rashin lafiyarsa da kuma dogaro da shi a cikin dabarar sun tunatar da mu cewa amfani da kayayyakin kula da gashi ya kamata ya yi la'akari da inganci da aminci. Ko masu amfani ne ko masu gyaran gashi, ya kamata su fahimci halayen sinadaran sosai kuma su bi ƙa'idodin amfani kamar gwajin fata, daidaita tsarin hadawa, da tsaftacewa sosai, ta yadda wannan "sinadarin taimako" zai iya taka rawarsa yayin da yake rage haɗarin lafiya har zuwa mafi girman matakin. A nan gaba, tare da haɓaka fasahar hada kayan gyaran gashi, za a iya ƙara inganta tsarin glyceryl monothioglycolate. Misali, ta hanyar haɗa shi da ruwan ganye (kamar ruwan shayin kore da ruwan chamomile), ana iya riƙe tasirinsa na taimako yayin da ake ƙara rage allergenicity, yana samar da mafita mafi aminci da sauƙi ga filin rini gashi.